In my last article we were reviewing the corrections for Herrschners Blue-Ribbon Afghans book. We will continue with those corrections. The next pattern is as follows:
Irish Trellis on page 50. The corrections to this pattern are as follows: The pattern repeat in Row 10 is 8 stitches – sk next 3 sts, tr in next st, working in front of tr just made, tr in 3 sk sts = 4 sts %2B sk next st, tr in next 3 sts. Working behind 3 tr just made, tr in sk st = 4 sts, for a total of 8 sts. 8 x 23.5 = 188 sts plus the ch-4 at the beginning and one tr at the end = 190 sts. Row 9 will end with 191 sts. To correct this, at the end of Row 9, work 2 sc together. Then in Row 12 work 2 sc in the first stitch, to return to 191 sts.
Diamonds and Rings on page 62 – Clarification of Edging on Ring Panel
Rnd 1: (RS with rs facing and working in bk lps only, join MC in and dc of first ring with sl st, ch 3 (counts as dc)
*To join half ring, place half ring under first full ring, (yo, insert hook into bk lp only of next st on full ring, then insert hook between the 13th and 14th dc of the half ring, yo, draw up lp (3 lps on hook) yo, and draw thru all 3 lps.
In this same joining st (of the full ring and the half ring) – work (3dc, hdc) – corner made.
In bk lp only of the full ring only, work hdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st. Insert free end of the half ring through the full ring, so first dc of the half ring is on top of the next sts of full ring. To join this end, (yo, insert hook between first and second dc of the half ring, then insert hook into bk lp only of the next st of the full ring, yo, draw up lp, (3 lps on hook) yo, and draw through all 3 lps on hook. Work (3 dc, hdc) in this same joining st (of half ring and full ring) – corner made. In full ring only, in bk lp only work hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next st. **In next ring (second ring) work sc in next 3 sts. In next ring work dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next st. Repeat from ** across to last ring. In the last ring hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st. Repeat from * for second end and up the second side to the beginning full ring. In this ring count back the last 6 sts; in first st work dc, hdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, sl st in top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off.
You will have 7 sts in side of each MC ring and 3 sts in side of each A ring. Including the corner sts (one on each end) you will have a total of 248 sts
Christmas Celebration on page 72: Assembly sequence does not match the picture. Should be Tree, Snowflake, Candy Cane, Star, Tree, Star, Candy Cane, Snowflake, Tree
Heavenly Love on page 108: Heart panel chart row 50 should be deleted, so there will be an even spacing of 2 rows between each pair of hearts. This will make the heart panel only 214 rows; when the angel panel is 215 rows. But this difference can be eased in during assembly.
Giraffes on page 110: Rows 2 – 8 say: sc in each sc across to last 2 sc; working in both lps, sc in last 5 sc. SHOULD say: sc in each sc across to last 2 sc; working in both lps, sc in last 2 sc
Giraffes on pages 112 and 113: There are two stitches missing in the body of each giraffe. In row 44, stitch #68 and stitch # 70 should be shaded gray for the LDC. This will match the giraffes in the upper row. On page 112 the upper diamond pattern should be moved up one row, to begin on row 120.
Spots And Stripes on page 126: Row 19: P6,sl 1, K2 tog, psso, *P7, rep bet *’s once, P6 (21 sts)
Filet Hearts on page 130: The number of chains in the beginning should be 184, not 185. In this filet pattern, each square of the chart equals 2 sts; either 2 dc or a ch 1 & 1 dc. To write Row 2 more specifically: (for block one) ch3, (this equals the beginning dc – but is not one of the dcs for the chart) dc in next 36 dc, (this is 2dc for each square of the chart – work one dc in each dc) For Block Two: (ch 1, sk next dc, dc in next dc) this should be 18 times for the 18 squares of the chart —-not 19
Rainbow Ripple on page 136: Row 10: Step 2: Yo, and pull through 1 lp on hook, (yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, change to MC, (yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, ch 1, (yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 10 times. Row 11: Step 2: is the same; after changing color, (yo and pull through 2 lps on hook) 5 times
The above is all the corrections that Leisure Arts gave me for Blue Ribbon Afghans.
I’d like to tell you a few things about a wonderful book by House of White Birches. The book is hard cover and is called BIG BOOK of SCRAP CROCHET AFGHANS. I have made some of the afghans in this book and can tell you first hand that the patterns are wonderful and I have not found any patterns that need correction. This book has a wonderful pattern called Chapeaus. The motifs in this pattern are little hats with a different color “ribbon” woven through the brim. They are then edged in black (or to be different you can use white) for several rounds to make the motif square. then whipstitch the motifs together and you have a beautiful afghan of all different color chapeaus! I have made several of these and each one turns out different but beautiful. The book is worth purchasing just to get this pattern!
Hot-Cross Granny is a rendition of the typical granny square. Its done with a K hook and has 5 colors per granny square. The colors that were used in the pattern were TLC Essentials by Coats & Clark in white, cranberry, light country rose, country blue, dark plum, light plum, butter, medium thyme & dark thyme. The combination of these colors is really pretty.
Granny’s Attic is another different granny square afghan. This one is done with 2 colors in each square – half square of the light color and the other half square done in the dark of the same color family. Lithg orange – dark orange, light blue – dark blue, light pink – dark pink, light green – dark gree, and so on. Each square is then trimmed in black. The squares are whipstitched together. STUNNING afghan!
Double Trouble is an afghan that I would think you would see in a dorm room! Its bright, garrish, zigzaggy and really different. Its done in squares of 5 or 6 bright colors in each square and the squares are trimmed in black. The pattern makes the squares look like a zigzag pattern. The afghan is whipstitched together and then trimmed in rows of color then several rows of black. Different look to this afghan, for sure!
Catty-Corners is one of the afghans that I made. It was very easy (although it looks difficult) and loads of fun to work up. Its done with various scrap colors and black, cherry red, orange, bright yellow & pale yellow. Each square is done is a log cabin style with the motif of a flower at one edge. It then gets an edging of ripples. This is a must see afghan!
Harlequin is done in strips of diamonds. First strip is black, second strip is colored. The pattern shows the colored strips in blue and green in one strip, pink and cranberry in another, orange and yellow in another and two purples in another. I made this afghan for my granddaughter and I made it with black in the first strip, turquoise in the next, then a black strip, a hot pink strip, a black strip,a lime green strip, a black strip then an orange strip then black. She just LOVES it!
There is one more crochet book I’d like to review in this article. It is…
The Best of Maggie Weldon Crochet Afghans – Leisure Arts. This book has some of the neatest afghans going! I have made several from Maggie’s book! Lets look at a few of these beauties!
Lacy Squares on page 12 – Really pretty victorian style afghan that will lend charm to any room in your home. The pattern is shown in off white and is done is 8″ squares that have a lacy look to them. This pattern is rated easy and from just reading though it I think it will be an easy one to accomplish. Well worth trying!
Cabbage Rose on page 20 – This is a pettern that is a join as you go but I THINK it could easily be converted to individual squares that are whipstitched together if you wish. The 11″ squares and worked up in white and tan. In the center of each is a large cabbage rose with green leaves. The roses are done in lavender and pink. It is rated as an intermediate pattern.
Pineapple Rose Blossom on page 24 – A beautiful baby blanket! A basic granny square in white with tiny rosebuds of pale pink, pale blue and pale yellow in the center of every other granny square. It is edged with a gorgeous pineapple edging. This is also rated intermediate.
Daisy Afghan on page 36 – This beautiful afghan just screams summer. Done in squares of sage green with white double petaled daises with yellow centers in the center of each square. Trimmed in white. Beautiful summer blanket for your couch. Rated as easy! Looks fun to work up!
Pinwheel Rose on page 52 – I have made several of these baby blankets and each turns out a little different from the one before it. a basic granny square with a sweet rose worked into the center. It is shown in white with pale pink, pale yellow and pale blue roses. I have made it this way and also made one with all pink roses for a beautiful baby girl. This is as easy rated pattern and it is super easy and works up quickly! The pattern calls for an H hook but I used an I hook. Just like the look of it better. Also, make sure you pull the center of the flower closed before cutting your yarn.
Baby’s Bunny Afghan on page 74 – This is a great pattern for those of you that like to crochet from charts. Each square is done in hdc in pink with a white lop-eared bunny worked in white. Each bunny has a white pom-pom tail. Adorable blanket. Rated intermediate.
Pretty Posies on page 80 – I made this afghan two years ago and it actually came out prettier than the picture in the book! Rated as easy and easy it is! A granny square with a posy in the center with leaves around it. Then a row of cream then a row the color of the posy then 2 more rows of cream. The pattern shows buttons sewn on the center of the posies but I did not use the buttons. I liked it better without them. The pattern is shown in cream, pink, blue, purple & Yellow with green leaves. I used winter white, cranberry, plum, dark pink and butter. Its perfectly GORGEOUS and large too!
Baby’s Granny Rose on page 82 – This is an easy and quick pattern if you need a baby blanket in a hurry. Its a sweet baby afghan that measures about 42″. Its actually a large granny square that has a decorative edging and tiny white roses around the edge with green leaves poking out from behind the rose petals. Its done in all white with white roses. Rated easy! I have made this one and it is quick and easy!
Victorian Ripple on page 86 – A beautiful ripple afghan that has a Victorian style edging on EACH ripple! Very different – very pretty! The pattern is shown in rose and white. Each ripple is very deep which gives elegance to the overall finished afghan. This pattern is rated intermediate. One I plan to do in the future!
Zinnia Granny on page 88 – If you like large flowers then you’ll love this afghan! Rated as intermediate its done in 9″ granny squares and each square has a huge pink zinnia in the middle of it. The zinnias have bright yellow centers and is bordered by dark green leaves. The granny squares are off white and each square is bordered in the same green as the leaves. Really a stunning blanket!
Country Rose on page 92 – This beauty is covered in rich red roses. Done is squares of off white the large red roses have a butter colored center. A row of red placed between the rows of off white around the squares give definition to each square. This is definitely a must try for me!
Popcorn Hexagons on page 98 – Done in white hexagons that have a lacy look to them. Each hexagon has a flower motif in the center in a different color for each hexagon. This is a join as you go afghan and is rated intermediate. Looks like a flower garden when finished!
The above patterns are just a few that are pretty simple to accomplish, even if you are a novice crocheter. Below are some tips that I have found to work over the years.
When you are making a starting ring instructions will usually tell you to chain 4 and sl st through the first ch to make a ring. I have found that it is easier to ch 4 and instead of sl stitching to make a ring; begin your first dc in the first ch. Pattern would be ch 4, 2dc in first ch, ch 2, 2 dc in same ch, ch1, 2dc in same ch, ch2, 2dc in same ch, ch1, repeat 2 more times. This would be your first round in a granny square. Makes a nice center.
When you are making granny squares and you come to the end of a round the pattern will usually tell you to ch2 or ch3 and sl st to top of first dc to complete the round. If you are continuing with another round I find it easier to do a hdc then sl st to top of the first dc. Then you can continue with the next round by making your first 3dc shell in the corner that you ended the last round in. Continue around and when you get to the end of the round do a 3dc shell in that corner and hdc and sl st to top of first dc of the first 3dc shell of that round. The overall look of the granny square is better using this technique.
Upon finishing the required amount of granny squares that a pattern call for, you now have to sew them together. There are several ways you can do this. First way is place 2 squares together, right side to right side. With a yarn needle threaded with the proper color yarn, begin in the center of the corner and go through both stitches. Bring your yarn through until you have a tail about 4 inches long. Make another stitch and pull fairly tight then your squares will be lined up pretty good. Now you just have to go through the outside loops of both squares with a whipstitch. At the end make a double whipstitch and one stitch back in toward the center a little. Cut yarn leaving a 4 or 5 inch tail. Thread the tail though the yarn needle and weave through a few stitches then back through a few more stitches. Always do this with the yarn tails to anchor them. Then cut close to squares. The second way to stitch the squares together is place the squares wrong side to wrong side. Stitch the same way a above but when you are through putting the two squares together you will have to weave the tails back through to the wrong side and anchor. This method puts a small ridge between the squares that looks quite pretty on certain afghan patterns. Its entirely up to you which way your prefer.
My last tip is ALWAYS weave you yarn ends as you stitch the squares together. If you don’t and wait until the whole afghan is stitched together you will have thousands of little ends to go back and weave through! There are many “finished” afghans sitting on closet shelves because the ends need weaving in. Its just so much easier to weave them in as you go.
Happy Crocheting (and weaving)
Lynn